I took a three week visit to Vietnam a couple of months ago.
I spent time in Hanoi, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh. Each place was so different.
I stayed in a gorgeous little boutique hostel in Ho Chi Minh, called The Common Room Project. It was the perfect place to write and hang out; and they had bands playing cosy acoustic music most nights at their rooftop bar.
It was clean and comfortable; and they even provided breakfast (complete with freshly made soy or almond milk) in the mornings.
It felt like a home away from home; and was the perfect base to meet lovely people and explore the city. There were many places that I found intriguing and magical in Ho Chi Minh. None more so that the Cafe Apartments at 42 Nguyen Hue Walking Street.
What are the Cafe Apartments?
The Cafe Apartments are a nine-story apartment block which looms over Nguyen Street. It was originally built in the 1950s, for American military officers and high ranking officials working for the South Vietnam government.
PHOTO RIGHT: A still from a 1951 newsreel, showing spectators in the apartment block at 42 Boulevarde Charner. Photo by Marcelino Truong.
Although the odd tenant still lives in The Cafe Apartments; the crumbling, character-filled block is now home to a labyrinth of cafes, fashion boutiques, workshops and co-working spaces.
Former apartments have been morphed into a hive of stunning, independent businesses.
It’s an absolute treasure trove of discovery!
I dedicated an entire day to just roam each of the nine floors at my leisure; and enjoyed the amazing surprises that lay behind each door and corner.
You can literally spend hours wandering around the place - browsing through the clothing or sampling the tea and coffee at each of the different cafes.
As the building was once an apartment block; it is unlike any other retail experience I have ever had.
Each floor is linked by a twisting, concrete staircase; and many of the original apartment features still exist.
You can spot quirky little fixtures; like retro telephones or vintage bathroom sinks throughout the place.
You can feel history
dripping from the walls.
My imagination was running wild the entire time I was there. It has an incredible, creative energy.
How To Find The Cafe Apartments:
At 42 Nguyen Hue Walking Street (in Ho Chi Minh), you will see a large, commercial bookshop on the ground floor.
The entrance to the Cafe Apartment is to the left of this store. Don’t be put off by the dodgy, unassuming entrance lobby; with it’s uneven concrete ramp floors and hanging electrical cables. It’s all part of the charm!
You will probably see people queuing for the elevator towards the back of the lobby. Although you can pay a small fee to take the lift, I recommend you just take the staircase. That way you can wander from floor to floor.
It makes the experience much more fun. Also; it can be a bit disorientating when you first make your way around; so it’s easier to just pop up and down the staircase to get anywhere.
Each floor holds a plethora of surprises. You can browse each one; popping in to different cafes to see if you like the vibe, before settling in or moving on.
Just follow the signs, and enter different doors to see what lies within. You will be treated to establishments with stunning decor, and quaint little balconies that look out onto Nguyen Street below.
There is no set layout for the floors, so you will just have to explore and immerse yourself in the experience. Try designer doughnuts, create your own signature perfume or get a custom-made teeshirt. There’s so much to do and see.
There are over 30 businesses in this maze of a place; as well as a few apartments that are still lived in by tenants to this day; which makes the atmosphere even more surreal.
You literally don’t know what is waiting behind each door.
I was going to do a floor by floor guide of each business, but feel like that will take the fun out of exploring such a cool place.
Part of why I enjoyed the experience so much was not knowing what was around each corner.
So I would rather not ruin the surprises, and leave it up to you to explore yourself!
However, here are three of my fave places within the Cafe Apartments:
1. Partea Tea Rooms - 4th Floor
This a super-cute little English Tea-Room themed tea house. It was so quaint and adorable. I felt like I was stepping into a story book. First; you choose your blend of tea from the library wall (I chose Cherry + Rose) ; and then you pick your own unique teacup and saucer. I loved the experience of sipping my tea and eating cream and jam scones in this dinky little place.
Open 9am-10.30pm
Call +84 90 763 34 57
2. The E.Y.E. Saigon - 4th Floor
This store looked stunning, with its minimalist, white Scandinavian decor and simple design. They sell wall-art, reusable totes, hand bags and custom teeshirts. I got a good quality teeshirt designed for me, featuring the names of my kids and my moko - and it was ready for me to pick up within half an hour. Impressive!
Open 10am-9pm
Call +84 121 877 5187
3. The Oriental Tea Place - 7th Floor
This was a wonderful and soothing experience. Again; you make a selection from the tea library. The teas all looked gorgeous. They were behind glass, so you could see the texture of each; as well as descriptions of what each one helps with. I chose the skin tea and it was delicious; with little flower buds floating in it. They continue refilling your cup for as long as you like; so you can relax and get the most out of your tea brew.
Call +84 8 6272 2063
PS: Take a look at the Cafe Apartments from outside at street level!
Make sure to take a moment to admire the building from the street. It looks like a giant dollhouse, and you can see each individual store-front branding on display. It is beautiful to look at during the day; as well as when it is lit up at night.
